We left Cappadocia after spending a few days very pleasant with Caner and Alkim and with recovered forces and with the Iranian visa in our pocket. We enjoyed in incredibles places, that have escaped from the tourism that abound in this area.
The snowy mountains that began to appear warned us that we were still in Anatolia Central and the spring, awaited, it would take to arrive.
We crossed deserts of salt that they made us remember previous adventures, lived in other lands.
We Continued feeling the same sensations, like last week’s. The hospitality that we received made us connect once again with the reality that is lived in these lands. Hospitality we receive was great gifts that appear at this time that really need it.
The rain and cold did not want to get lost, the daily we are living.
The rain and cold did not want to get lost, the daily we are living.
And also introduced us to his cousin the snow.
They were tough but beautiful days. Battling wind and snow, we won the hot bed and the food that we were offered from the houses. They asked us, what are you doing?… come inside please…
It was not all fight and fight. One day we were aware that it was snowing flakes with thousands of different ways. We have never seen anything like… only in signs of snow… Incredible… Another gift from nature.
We left the central Anatolia and we left it on their site and arrived at Kahramanmaras, city where we tasted better ice cream that we had never ate with Hussein and Feray. In Maras, first great city of the Southeast, the temperature, the climate and the environment changed completely. We had the sensation we passed from the winter to the spring in a single day.
We arrived at the gates of the Turkish Kurdistan. The Kurdish people do not have an official nation and who are divided among Southeast Turkey, northern Syria, Northern Iraq and Northwest of Iraq. It is a people with their own language, although it is official only in Iraq. In Turkey are 20 million and have no opportunity to study in their language. Some children arrive at school with 6 years and this is the moment when they begin to learn Turkish. It is a deeply rooted society to its origins and customs, which it has long time claiming the identity, although the Turkish Government has given back. And in these lands and with this people we have lived for two weeks.
We could share with the students of Hussein what we lived so far on the journey and train a bit like teachers.
We had always asked us where they came from pistachios and these lands are our answer. Acres and acres of fields full of trees that give the fruit in summer.
In the Center and West of Turkey we were told that this area of the South-East is very dangerous cause the Kurdish conflict and that people are not nice. As always, which injects the television and the media is totally polluted. We found, as well as in Turkey, with amazing people who are always ready to help you. In this case this man almost forced to María to rise to the tractor, because we had a very strong port of five kilometers. He couldn’t believe and mostly like a man going in a tractor… it was our interpretation. It is clear that Caracola accepted the invitation very gladly.
We had the opportunity to cross the Euphrates River, which is famous in the history of Mesopotamia.
In these lands, we started to feel the great mix of cultures in this area, as a result of all the civilizations that have passed through here.
And we take the endless slides with philosophy. Yavaş yavaş…
On the road we found with Charlie. He is an English bike traveller, which came out four years ago from his home and came to South East Asia. Now is back but first he wanted to take a boat in Turkey to reach Egypt and give a ride of the year and a half for Africa.
On the third day we had the opportunity and the luxury of participating in a Kurdish party. They were celebrating the tradition of circumcision, practiced to the kids. We danced the typical dances, for hours and we had a good scare the first time that a man pulled his pistol and shot into the air a few times… uppppps… then one becomes relax when you see that make it naturally… they watched us and they laughed… clear and we also, what can we do?
At night we were invited to dinner with the mens of the village. María felt like in a Harem.
We arrived to Sanliurfa, where Cemil, Couchsurfing contact, was waiting for us. The first night he hosted in his House to a chinese girl, an Italian, a polish, a Lithuanian, a granaína, a basque and himself, the Turkish. You already have the characters to create a joke.
Sanliurfa is of those cities that do not leave indifferent. Stroll through its streets, bazaars and gardens, becomes a walk by the time where you can feel that there are people who still lives at another speed, based on ancient laws of nature and where, even if you’re a tourist, give you a smile and a “Welcome” in a manner so natural that they really make you feel good and quiet. If ever you have the opportunity to visit it, please stay a few days. It was Laura’s recommendation, it was a gift for us.
Purple colour in the tissues of women and men, signal that you are in Kurdistan.
This is the dangerous people who they talked about. Families who live in houses of adobe, which working field growing wheat, cotton and corn and with which we have enjoyed, once again, the naturalness and big-hearted of these people, whether they be Turkish, Kurdish or the Conchinchina.
The first question is always where are you from? Second, are you married? and third, do you have children? No, and they cannot understand it. The Kurdish society if it is characterized by something is by the amount of children they have. It is normal to have five or six children, with one woman and with the other woman more. Yes, Yes, sure that you’ve thought about it and you does not fit in your head, but here it is normal. And the two womens live in the same house. It is also true that we are finding with people younger that have university studies that are focusing their life differently. Especially women who have another vision of the future. They have to fight much, as in almost all countries.
These last two weeks many thoughts and our eyes always directed were towards the South, towards Syria. We cycled many miles to a few hundred meters from this country which, currently, is mired in the madness of the civil war. They commented us that the northern zone, which is Kurdish, there were no problems, and so we have been able to cycle without any complications.
War that arises after the uprisings of the people saying ¡Basta! to the Government, which for many years has been doing what it wanted, although it seemed that the last few years wanted to change things. Riots that received a tough response from the Government, which produced the civil response with weapons in their hands. Conflict where, once again, it appears religion is in the middle. A Government that is not Muslim governing a country with Muslim majority. Interests of the religious heads behind all this offense? To all this add the Kurds living in Syria, they see that it is the moment to live with dignity, since until now they have hardly had rights as people. Many things are mixed and after talk to Syrians who have escaped their country and Kurds living on this side of the border, the conclusion is that there are many interests, but once more those who really are suffering this is the common people who had to escape or dying in their country.
We found ‘official’ refugee camps…
And also with camps improvised of Syrians who have escaped through the border illegally and now they await news that say that this madness is over and can return to their homes.
And we, as Westerners, we can travel, visiting countries freely, saying that our families are very good and that we live without any concern…
Today is March 21, spring begins, and for Turkish and Kurdish society can be a big day. The Kurds celebrate Newroz, first day of the year and celebrate a great festival in Diyarbakir where about two million people gather. It is rumored that the armed Kurdish party group, will announce a high fire. Important step for that in the near future might live in peace. We can be all together as people and respecting the identities of all of them.
In a week we get to Iran where we will gather with our parents to visit the country and make few laughs with them.
We hope you’re well.