When I arrived in Istanbul, I found Zigor sick… but nothing serious, a bed, a good blanket and a few days in horizontal position was enough to recover… It seems that the age does not forgive, hehe… he played a football match like a soccer and the day after, he felt with a big pain in all the body…
Already nearly recovered, we celebrate his birthday at a restaurant in the neighborhood fish. They are fishmongers having the restaurant on the floor above, so the fish you can choose it is well fresh.
In the end we left Istanbul, although it was not very clear while we were going to find. But we had to start in and out of the comfort of the house of Osman, our home also for nearly a month. If we listen to the internet, we still would be there… I don’t know what he would think our friend…
And probably because we didn’t do much attention, the weather respected us and although the day wasn’t sunny, we didn’t got wet. A good start of the tryp. We had to worry only about adapt back to the bike, although we were very happy one more time, after the passage of the kilometers the legs begun to complain.
The first night we noticed and prepared for what we were going to find the rest of the days. HOSPITALITY, as well, with capital letters.
Amazing people, that without thinking twice have given us bed, food and the warmth of a home in the cold nights.
When we stopped everything was easy. We Look for a small town, ask for water and let them know that we wanted to sleep there, we had a tent and just needed a quiet place. All this, of course drinking a chay, or two, or three… here in Turkey is the national sport, drink and invite to tea at any time of the day.
Meanwhile the local people were thinking about the different possibilities… and us, from the moment that they made us a gesture, making us understand that we had to be relax… ok no problemand. We have slept in the room in a mosque, poor houses, in a rich beds, in a warehouse of endive, at City Hall… and we have known all these people that from the first second, and without us knowing anything, they have opened up their homes and have invited us to eat delicious dishes (I am happy in Turkey, because here there are thousands diferent of soup -corba- and almost all homes we have enjoyed them).
With Fujimoto we met in a highway. This likeable Japanese rider, he crossed up to where we were jumping the median. And although he didn’t speak any English, simply with his gestures and his smile left us happy and with a nice memory of this meeting.
The comfort of the nights, plus the road has been quite plain, it has left us enjoy and go feeling “yavaş yavaş”, “poliki-poliki”, or “slowly slowly”, shaped. They occasionally appeared in the road endless slides where we had to go with great patience.
In some houses in which we were, they cook this type of bread, called yufka. They prepare it very fine, they dry it and stacked in this way and it takes them. They have bread for a year. When it will eat you have to wet it with water and let it stand and mixed with cheese, butter, dipping it in the soup, you can use like a spoon or what you like, is very delicious.
This day the sky became dark and it threatened damp in the end of the day, but only it was a little rain and at the entrance of a village we found a roof to protect us.
After several days seeing plain and more plain land, where at every moment gives you the feeling that going to appear riding Don Quixote, a few small reliefs make you open your eyes more, to appreciate those beautiful changes that indicate you that you’re moving.
Before a hard windy day, we stopped in this music store. Although still selling cassettes, we bought Turkish music in mp3. Next to the speaker had a little bird singing when he put the music.. until we realized, we thought all the songs had the same base, something like a bird …
The day was hard because we had a wind against very strong, which let us advance only 15 km. When we decided to stop, the wind was so strong that we could hardly breathe, so we could not open eyes. Lucky for us one boy said us to go his house to be comfortable.
And the next day… the wind… it got on our side! We were flying.
And during the flight, we had time to visit to one of the craters that I think the meteorite created last week.
In Turkey there are many dogs. As this dog, which rests quietly on the Sultanhani Karabansaray doors. They live in groups and we have come to see 20 all together!, and when they are on the road and see us, I don’t know what you they see, but start to us barking and running toward us… uupppssss!
This is the a endive warehouse, where we spent a night. They explained us how is the production and we didn’t understand very well, what they were doing with the root in a kind of laboratory… but we have now discovered, they transform the root creating chicory. They dried the root and they used as coffee and has many properties.
This is the most dangerous. It is a type of Mastiff coming from the District of Kangal, from where it gets its name, kangal, Sivas province inTurkey. It is not a common Shepherd, they live with the flock and defends it with great force. They usually figth against wolves, bears and jackals… some are known as kurtcul kangal, which means killer of wolves… has a bigger head than neck, and protect it from wolves with a collar of spikes… Thankfully this was tied!
They also say that it is a very loyal dog, and that if the owner knows educate him well, is very affectionate with children and other animals…
We are here practicing the national sport, accompanied with a sweet tahini cake, there are very good! …anywhere they improvise a sitting room to make you feel at ease.
In the latter part the slides were more inclined, but as you know, you have to go yavaş yavaş. In the end where Zigor was waiting me, to not separate us too.
And we arrived in Cappadocia. Us we were surprised and grateful because the time during the 14 days we have cycled from Istanbul has been very good. Less the day of headwind, the rest of the days was in favour, and only the last day was hailing us, but very soft, which is much better than rain.
In Göreme, we decided to stay in a hotel, in order to get some rest and have our space, before meet with Caner, our contact of Warmshower. He was waiting us about 15km. We entered to the room… and started to rain!
The next day we went for a walk in the surrounding area.
We crossed the Red Valley with the bikes.
And we enjoy the spectacular formations in this area closely.
Breakfast with stunning views.
This dog accompanied us during 14 km, running on our side… we were impressed and left us in the first store that he smelled.
We got together with Caner in Urgup. That from the first moment we felt like in an oasis. He has been traveling with the bike in Europe and has a mindset open… at home we feel in another Turkey… we leave aside the basic rules from the traditional houses, where we have been sleeping.
In the town where Caner study cooking, Mustafapasa, we were a few days with him and Alkim, his girlfriend. Then we went to Avanos, where live Alkim to a larger House.
Here we met with Randy, a dutchman who for reasons of love changed all plans of their travel by bike. And with our friends we went to eat the best künefe of Turkey. It is a very appreciated sweet in Turkey and is best to eat it that explain it.
From Avanos we made an express trip to get the visa for Iran. After about 13 hours by bus, we arrived in the morning to Trabzon, on the Black Sea coast and on the same day, we get the visa.
We stayed there one night with Eren, friend of Caner. And there we met with Rafael, a Portuguese bike traveller who had also gone to take the Iranian visa and he was organizing a trip to Iran for organized backpackers. His idea is not to make money. He want show to the people that it is easier than they might think go to Iran and give them a little push… Good people.
While we do the works of the trip, we’ve had a little abandoned, our friends, Caner and Alkim, they come out to take the air… the day is sunny.
In a few days we will ride on the bikes. We go to Eastern Turkey and we go into Iran by the Kurdistan … we look very happy and with illusion this new stage…